Pure South

There's a spring in the step of the crew at this Southgate stalwart, thanks to the arrival of chef Ashley Davis, fresh from a stint heading up London's Michelin-starred Helene Darroze. At first glance little has changed. it's the same well-proportioned dining room and warm yet polished service, and the commitment to farm-to-plate sourcing of prime Tasmanian produce is unwavering. But Davis has brought a deceptive simplicity to the menu, allowing the ingredients to take centre stage. A demure chunk of pork belly is lifted by fresh shiitakes and sesame seeds, while the gaminess of crackly skinned quail is cut by an intense gribiche. Wessex pork loin, with a terrine of cheek and jowl, is all warmth and gentle flavours, and a roasted rabbit saddle and cottage pie enters the realm of high-end comfort food. Tassie chocolate, whisky and, yes, apples turn up in desserts. Painstaking plating and artful garnishes add an overlay of sophistication. Things are looking up for Pure South.