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Quay

Signature dish: Quay's snow egg.
Signature dish: Quay's snow egg.Supplied

Good Food hatGood Food hatGood Food hat18/20

Contemporary$$$

For many, the excitement and glamour of Quay lie in its glittering views of harbour, Opera House and bridge. But the real joy is what happens inside, from the silky, knowledgeable service to the immaculately imagined small dishes from Peter Gilmore and head chef Sam Aisbett. Their increasingly botanical food is, like the view, an intriguing synthesis of nature and artifice. Lightly cooked freshwater marron cloaked in tiny red radish scales sports miniature fairy roses and a tangy rosehip puree. A delicate pairing of abalone and tender squab bathed in an anchovy broth is prettied up with little white bean flowers, and a scarily dark but flavoursome cube of goose is paired with crunchy rice, hatsuka radish and delicate pea blossoms. If you can tear yourself away from the guava snow egg, the Andalusian citrus and almond dessert is a lovely, mad swirl of cream and crunch; a sweet celebration of what is undoubtedly Sydney’s biggest night out.

Wine: A list as deep and broad as Sydney Harbour, and just as awesome; 32 by the glass

And…herbs and flowers come from Peter Gilmore’s garden.

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