A guide to different salts and substitutes, plus how to use them to season your food

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As any cook will tell you, salt is much more than just a dining table afterthought. "Salt is vital for building layers of flavour," says Shelagh Ryan, co-owner of London's Lantana Cafes. "I like to add it at every step – salted water for cooking pulses and grains, sprinkled on vegetables when roasting, and in dressings and sauces."

Celebrity chef Tobie Puttock agrees. "The right amount elevates flavour," he says. "My parents hardly salted our food when I was growing up, which is cool because I have a real understanding of what ingredients really taste like."

Given salt's stature, knowing your kosher from your rock salt and how to harness its magic is paramount. "Salt is like wine," agrees Tasmania-based chef Katherine Witbreuk, "there are many types of crystals with different degrees of strength and size."

So which salt is which, and when should you use them?

Table salt is very fine, subtle and inexpensive, and contains more sodium chloride than sea salt (usually about 98 per cent sodium chloride plus 2 per cent anti-caking agent). Largely regarded as a cooking salt, it is used for household purposes and is added to water when cooking pasta or vegetables.

Pro tip: "Because of its characteristics, I sometimes use it to season salads," says Witbreuk.

Rock salt is a coarse version of table salt, but purer given it doesn't contain any additives.

Pro tip: "The crystals are much larger," says Witbreuk "which makes them ideal for curing purposes or baking vegetables on."

Kosher salt is named for its use in the preparation of meat according to Jewish dietary guidelines, is additive-free, ideal for baking and a favourite all-purpose option.

Pro tip: "Kosher is particularly useful for drawing the flavour out of vegetables when blanching," says Witbreuk.

Sea salt is extra briny in flavour, denser than kosher salt and is used as both a cooking and finishing salt. Choose from an endless variety including Sicilian, Himalayan and Fleur de Sel.

Pro tip: Add sea salt to sweet dishes to boost flavour and round out sweetness. "Add to butter cake, and anything chocolate," says pastry chef Rochelle Adonis. "It does wonders for meringue, and even ice-cream. The only things I don't use it in are fruit-based recipes."

Salt substitutes

While your standard line-up of salts is the obvious go-to for packing punch, there are other sexier and more thrilling ways to season. Look for products that are naturally briny and bursting with flavour, be it a salty parmesan cheese or rich soy sauce.

Vegetables

Vegetables and greens that thrive in a salt-like environment are brilliant for adding complexity and depth. "Sea beans, sea lettuce and oyster plant are great," says Witbreuk, "also produce that is brined and cured or fermented is very effective." Try experimenting with these when preparing rice dishes and fruit and vegetable-based recipes.

Meats

Look for fattier meats, smoked or unsmoked, with a deep, salty flavour. "I cook often with pancetta and lardo," says Puttock. "Both are cured so I hold back on extra salt." Fry and add to soups, risottos, stews or to top oysters or pizzas for real oomph.

Seafood

Small but mighty, delicacies from the sea make for an all-together more complex seasoning. "Seaweed, anchovies, dried scallop roe and bottarga (dried, pressed and salted mullet roe) all have a wonderful saltiness," says Puttock. "I use them in place of salt for sauce bases or for finishing dishes." Use to bolster a classic puttanesca, roast lamb, vegetables, salads or egg dishes.

Herbs and spices

Fresh herbs and spices are a healthy substitute and can be added in stealthy doses. "My go-tos are mint, basil, sumac, and onion seeds," says Ryan. For a more exotic slant, Witbreuk suggests using complex spice mixes. "I use baharat (a Middle Eastern spice mix) and dukkah (an Egyptian concoction made up of nuts, seeds and spices) in place of salt," she says. Try adding to slow-cooked or barbecued meats, fish, roasted vegetables and soups.

Kosher salt stockists: Smoked and Cured, The Salt Box, Indo Asian Groceries