Winter is the best time of the year for cooking, and for gathering around our favourite soups, roasts, pastas and puddings. Porridge for breakfast, cheesy toasties for lunch and potatoes in every form.
But those same old dishes come around every winter, right? So here are some timely tips on how to reset your cooking, banishing boredom in the kitchen and at the table. It's about turning winter to your advantage, incorporating new ingredients, new technology and new thinking about food.
It's not about throwing out those beautiful, time-honoured recipes, but elevating them, building in flavour and interest. A few tricks, and suddenly your soup is a meal, your curry comes alive, and you've learnt something useful, which is always a good thing.
Tray bakes were invented by people who want their dinner to cook while they are in the bath reading a book, catching up on the news, or reading a story to the kids. It sounds simple – you just chuck everything onto a baking tray and throw it in the oven. But the science is in choosing the right things to toss together, and prepping them so they cook in the same amount of time.
Some ideas: root vegetables, sausages and feta; meatballs with pumpkin and red onion; chicken with lemon and olives (pictured above); whole snapper with red and yellow capsicums and chilli.
Don't let a little cold keep you from the joys of grilled meats in winter – we still need smoke, scorch and char to make life interesting. Do half the work upfront, however, with spicy rubs, marinades and brines, then send the bravest member of the family out to the barbie, warmly dressed and clutching tongs.
Sometimes you can follow the recipe, do all the right things, and what you end up with is … blah.
Reach into the fridge for that pack of red miso paste, and whisk it through your ho-hum soup or stew, and bingo! Depth of flavour, umami and toasty sweetness are yours.
There are three crucial hot sauces you need on hand all winter long.
Ever wondered how chefs pack umami into vegan and gluten-free dishes? Two words: nutritional yeast. This plant-based seasoning (not an active yeast) might look like boring brown flakes, but get this – it adds instant cheesiness without cheese.
Cook it into soups and bean dishes, sprinkle a spoonful over dips and home-made pizza, or use to enforce cheesiness in a vegan mac 'n' cheese or roasted cauliflower.
Chefs mix it with sea salt, call it "magic dust" and throw it on potato chips and kale chips. Brent Savage of Sydney's plant-based Yellow restaurant suggests adding it to vegetable stocks and when cooking quinoa, rice and other grains and pulses.
"One of my secret favourite things to do at home is to have avocado on Vegemite toast with the kids," says Savage. "We put yeast flakes on top, and it's delicious."
If you buy the same stuff all winter long, you'll go spare trying to think of new things to do with it. Go micro-seasonal instead and dinner will be different every day.
Pies and puddings will automatically go beyond apples and pears to take in lemons, limes, custard apples, blood oranges, rhubarb and quinces.
Vegetables are more than just potatoes and carrots – let pine mushrooms, fennel, brussels sprouts and sugarloaf cabbage star as well.
Turn those discarded prawn heads and shells into a beautiful shellfish stock to use as a base for Thai hot and sour soup, creamy French bisque or bouillabaisse.
Just fry them in a little oil with onion and garlic, then crush them into the pan with a potato masher to extract the juices.
Add 1 tablespoon tomato paste and two cups of boiling water and simmer for 10 minutes, then strain, pressing the heads and shells to extract maximum flavour before you discard them.
Nobody likes a watery soup. But there are ways to transform soups and stews into something thick and creamy without having to add a bucket of cream or whisk in a roux (a paste made of flour and butter).
Beans, lentils, chickpeas and potatoes are natural thickeners, so all you need to do is cook and mash enough of them with a potato masher or a stick blender and stir them into your soup to get the right texture.
Cashew and almond butters are other ways to add flavour and richness.
Use the ingredient that forms the foundation of flavour for your dish as the garnish as well. If your curry begins with slow-cooked onions, put some of them aside and crisp them in a super-hot pan to serve on top.
It's the same with bacon – keep some to crisp for the final touch.
If you're serving braised or wilted kale as a vegetable, save a few leaves, massage them with a touch of olive oil and salt, and crisp them in the oven for 5 minutes to scatter on top as kale chips.
They have one life as fruit, ready for pies and puddings, such as creamy baked rice pudding with warm, juicy quinces or tangy rhubarb. But in their second life, winter fruits are ready-made flavour bombs for savoury dishes.
Vegemite brings a natural explosion of umami to your toast for breakfast, but it's just as much fun at lunch and dinner, where it will do the same for sauces, gravies, pies and stews.
Take a tip from Hetty McKinnon's lovely cookbook To Asia, with Love and make buttery miso Vegemite noodles with instant ramen, or egg noodles loaded with butter, Vegemite, miso paste and grated cheddar.
Or try Pepe Saya's new butter marbled with Oomite, an all-natural spread that will melt umami all over your crumpets, scones or steak.
Dark chocolate's bittersweetness gives a depth to French daubes, cocido (chickpea stew) and red-wine braises.
Add a couple of squares towards the end of the cooking time and stir through.
Slow-cooking, especially in an actual slow-cooker, sometimes diminishes individual flavours, leaving everything tasting the same. To avoid that, add strong flavours such as spices, fresh chilli, sea salt and black pepper towards the end of cooking time.
Might the dish need a touch of acidity (lemon juice/zest, apple cider vinegar or tamarind) to wake it up? Finish with a burst of fresh herbs.
This article appears in Good Food in Sunday Life magazine within the Sun-Herald and the Sunday Age on sale June 6.
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