Hummus. Photo: Marina Oliphant

Be a bit picky with your chickpeas for this. New-season dried chickpeas will require less soaking and cooking, and will have much better flavour; that packet at the back of the cupboard might never soften.


350g dried chickpeas

2 tsp baking soda

200g tahini

4 cloves garlic, finely grated

2 lemons, juiced, salt flakes

4 green cardamom pods

4 allspice berries

2 tsp cumin seeds

Extra virgin olive oil

About 150ml iced water

1 bunch chicory or parsley


1. Soak the chickpeas overnight in lots of water, then drain and place in a large saucepan with the baking soda and plenty of cold water and bring to a simmer. Skim and cook for about 40 minutes or until the chickpeas are cooked - cooking time will vary, depending on the age of the chickpeas.

2. Remove one-third of the cooked chickpeas and drain. Simmer the rest until they're really tender, then drain.

3. Add the well-cooked chickpeas to a food processor and process to a stiff paste. Add the tahini, garlic and lemon juice and blitz for a minute or two. Taste and season.

4. While processing, drizzle in some iced water (you won't need the full 150 ml) until the hummus is light and fluffy, but not too loose.

5. Grind the spices together in a mortar and pestle with some salt. Remove the cardamom husks. Roll the whole chickpeas in the spice mix until well coated.

6. Fry the spiced chickpeas in olive oil over medium heat until fragrant and slightly golden.

7. Smear the hummus on a plate, scatter over the spiced chickpeas and top with chopped chicory or parsley and a drizzle of olive oil. Serve with harissa and toasted flatbread.

Drink Oaked chardonnay