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Easter chocolate taste test: Milk, dark, flavoured and filled eggs

Callan Boys
Callan Boys

Not too big that they will be easily spotted; not too small that they'll be left unclaimed for the dog to find, these Aldi caramel eggs are just right.
Not too big that they will be easily spotted; not too small that they'll be left unclaimed for the dog to find, these Aldi caramel eggs are just right.James Brickwood

Chocolate tasting is a tough job but someone has to do it. Or, in this case, a whole panel of experts assembled to assess the good, the bad and the too-sweet chocolates set to fill baskets this Easter.

All chocolates were blind-tasted and assessed for flavour, texture, innovation and appearance to arrive at a final combined average score.

THIS MONTH'S JUDGES

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Callan Boys Good Food national writer

Brent Savage Executive chef and co-owner of hatted Sydney restaurants Bentley, Monopole, Cirrus and Yellow

Yves Scherrer Pastry chef and owner of Madame & Yves patisserie in Clovelly, Sydney

Jodie Van Der Velden Sydney Royal Chocolate Competition judge and owner of Josophan's Fine Chocolates in Leura, NSW

Tip: Go for quality over quantity – one great egg from a pro chocolatier beats 30 highly sugared ones from a $2 shop.

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Dark chocolate bilby and bunnies (not to scale), from left: Haigh's; Godiva and Koko Black.
Dark chocolate bilby and bunnies (not to scale), from left: Haigh's; Godiva and Koko Black.James Brickwood

Dark chocolate

Haigh's Small Bilby, 110g, $13.95

Score: 6.4/10

There's a dark cherry note to this cute Aussie icon and part of proceeds for each bilby sale go to Rabbit Free Australia, a non-profit supporting the eradication of feral rabbits. The mould is beautiful, the chocolate has nice snap, but the taste lacks complexity.

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Godiva Bunny, 113g, $11.90

Score: 5.8/10

When the Beatles were still together and Campbell Soup Company owned the business, Godiva was appointed official chocolatier to the Royal Court of Belgium. One hopes the Easter bunnies made for Belgian royals had a less grainy texture than this guy.

Koko Black The Biggest Bunny, 500g, $59

Score: 6.5/10

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Although the chocolate didn't score highly for taste complexity, judges agreed the giant rabbit had a beautiful mould and tempering. Also available in a milk version for kids who'd struggle with half a keg of 54 per cent dark chocolate.

Lindt Lindor Dark Egg with Mini Eggs, 66g, $6

Score: 5.8/10

A standard-issue egg sitting at 70 per cent dark chocolate. Van Der Velden says it's a misconception that high-percentage dark chocolate tastes better. "Quality depends on the unique characteristics of the bean and other variables."

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Shocolate Diamond Egg, 100g, $19.99

Score: 7/10

There's a robust fruitiness to the flavour, and a diamond-covered surface makes this egg look like something that could power a Star Trek spaceship. Thumbs up to family-owned Shocolate, established in Melbourne in 2009.

Koko Black Small 54% Egg, 40g, $6

Score: 5.4/10

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Not every item from this Melbourne chocolatier is high-concept and pricey. There are also basket-fillers, such as this dark chocolate number, which is super smooth even if there's nothing else to get too excited about.

Shocolate Psychedelic Dozen.
Shocolate Psychedelic Dozen.James Brickwood

Milk chocolate

Shocolate Psychedelic Dozen, 220g, $35.99

Score: 7.8/10

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If there was a best packaging award, it would go to this hand-painted kaleidoscopic dozen. Presented in a cardboard carton, Shocolate's splattered eggs are properly tempered and ultra shiny.

Photo: James Brickwood

Darrell Lea Hollow Egg, 130g, $4

Score: 5.3/10

A sugary supermarket egg that might be OK crumbled and stirred through ice-cream, but lost marks due to its bendy texture.

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"I like that they've had a crack at making it a bit darker than your standard milk chocolate egg," says Savage.

Photo: James Brickwood

Shocolate Handbrushed Duckling, 50g, $16.99

Score: 7.4/10

By far the cutest chocolate tasted, no one is receiving this little dude as a gift and not cracking a smile.

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The chocolate has notes of vanilla, and is slightly too sweet, but c'mon – look at that face!

Milk chocolate bunnies (not to scale), from left: Cadbury Dairy Milk; Lindt; Pauls.
Milk chocolate bunnies (not to scale), from left: Cadbury Dairy Milk; Lindt; Pauls.James Brickwood

Cadbury Dairy Milk Sitting Adult Bunny, 170g, $4.50

Score: 5.5/10

Cadbury's glass-and-a-half classic garnered nods for its elegant mould and nice shine but all judges agreed the texture was too grainy for the purple rabbit to warrant a place at the coffee table on Easter Sunday.

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Lindt Gold Bunny, 100g, $4.50

Score: 5/10

"It's cloyingly sticky," says Van Der Velden. "One for sweet chocolate lovers who don't actually like chocolate – they like chocolate-flavoured creamy fat." The bell-sporting bunny also lost points for its dull surface.

Paul's Chocolate Bunny, 100g, $9.99

Score: 6.8/10

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Made in Sydney's inner west, Paul's modern bunny was deemed to have the most sophisticated flavour profile of the milk chocolates tasted. "It's well crafted with a really good melt and smooth texture," says Van Der Velden.

From left: David Jones Golden Honeycomb Egg; Thorntons Nut and Praline; Koko Black Golden Egg with Orange and Pistachio.
From left: David Jones Golden Honeycomb Egg; Thorntons Nut and Praline; Koko Black Golden Egg with Orange and Pistachio.Photos: James Brickwood

Flavoured and filled

Thorntons Nut and Praline, 207g, $13.99

Score: 6.5/10

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A big hunk of love that was too sweet to actually enjoy but earned points for its pronounced hazelnut flavour. "I think the small chocolates it comes with are quite decent," says Scherrer. "Not amazing, but decent."

David Jones Golden Honeycomb Egg, 110g, $16.95

Score: 6.3/10

A grainy-textured Belgian chocolate egg topped with crunchy honeycomb balls that look better than they taste. Mercifully not as cloying as some of the other milk chocolates tasted, and it makes a smart table centrepiece.

Koko Black Golden Egg with Orange and Pistachio, 180g, $22

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Score: 7.7/10

"This is the only one I really like and it's not even chocolate," says Scherrer. "It's balanced, not overly sweet, and the pistachio is a nice inclusion." Candied orange peel flecks add grown-up good times.

Luxury Salted Caramel Truffle Eggs from Aldi.
Luxury Salted Caramel Truffle Eggs from Aldi.James Brickwood

Aldi Specially Selected Luxury Chocolate Truffle Eggs, 150g, $4.99

Score: 5.6/10

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When in-laws visit late in the afternoon on the long weekend, there are worse things you could serve with a pot of tea. Most kudos goes to Aldi's balanced white chocolate and rhubarb number.

Dairy Fine Caramel Filled Hunting Eggs, 320g, $4.99

Score: 5.7/10

For anyone after a well-priced egg for a backyard hunt, these Aldi chocs are the perfect candidate. Not too big that they will be easily spotted; not too small that they'll be left unclaimed for the dog to find on Monday.

Whizz Fizz eggs.
Whizz Fizz eggs.James Brickwood
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Wizz Fizz Cream Eggs, 222g, $7.50

Score: 4.9/10

Eight-year-olds will lose their minds over these sherbet-spiked orbs, but the high level of sugar may turn off most adults. "I think these are terrible, but I do like the idea of popping candy in chocolate," says Scherrer. "I might even use that idea in a dessert of my own."

Callan BoysCallan Boys is editor of SMH Good Food Guide, restaurant critic for Good Weekend and Good Food writer.

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