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How Sydney steak joints are bucking the meat-free trend

Scott Bolles
Scott Bolles

Bistecca alla Fiorentina at Bistecca in Sydney.
Bistecca alla Fiorentina at Bistecca in Sydney.James Brickwood

In a city where plant-based is the new menu hero and even the burger chains are jumping on the meat-free bandwagon, a curious counter-trend is emerging. Sydney is on the cusp of a red meat explosion with at least six meat-based restaurants and specialist butchers opening in the space of about a year.

When the restaurant precinct at the giant West HQ development in Rooty Hill opens this year – Chu by China Doll and Stefan Manfredi's Pizzaperta are among the restaurants going in – they'll be joined by chef Sean Connolly.

The onetime SMH Good Food Guide Chef of the Year etched his name in Sydney food history with a $1000 degustation during in his days at Astral restaurant, but fine dining won't be on the cards when he opens at West HQ in June. Connolly will open Steak & Oyster Co, which will have plenty of protein on the menu.

Sean Connolly is to open Steak & Oyster Co.
Sean Connolly is to open Steak & Oyster Co.Jacs Powell
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"Six styles of steaks, lamb and pork chops. We'll also have a surf and turf option and a cheeky prawn cocktail. Full retro chic."

Warnings might've been issued for the future of independent butchers in Sydney, but they haven't got the memo at three recently opened butchers: Origin Meat in Randwick, Rozelle's cute newish Mr Baillie & Co and Argyle Smokehouse & Butchery, which swings opens its doors in Rosebery this week.

Bistecca, a restaurant dedicated to just one cut of steak, Tuscany's revered bistecca alla Fiorentina, has been cooking to packed audiences since opening on Bridge Street last year.

The 300-seat Firegrill will open midyear, near Wynyard, and next month Campbell's Stores at Circular Quay will roll out the carpet at 6Head, which takes its name from the six head of cattle that arrived with the First Fleet, starting a trend that doesn't appear to have waned.

Scott BollesScott Bolles writes the weekly Short Black column in Good Food.

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