It's no surprise that a country obsessed with noodles such as ramen, soba and udon would take to pasta like a duck to water, but pasta in Japan is a law unto itself. Almost invariably involving spaghetti, and using ingredients such as nori seaweed, soy sauce and salmon roe, the pasta subculture known as "wa-fu" in Japan is something you won't find anywhere else.
400g dried spaghetti
1 tbsp vegetable oil
400g skinless salmon fillets
1½ tsp salt
1 tbsp butter
2 tbsp very finely chopped onion
2 tbsp sake or vodka
300ml pouring cream
2 tbsp salmon roe (optional)
1 sheet nori, cut into thirds and then into very fine strips
1. Cook the pasta in salted water until al dente. Heat the oil in a large frypan over medium heat. Season the salmon well with one teaspoon of salt and fry for about three minutes on each side until lightly browned and just cooked through. Remove from the pan and rest on absorbent paper.
2. Without washing the pan, heat the butter and fry the onion over medium heat until softened. Add the remaining salt and sake and bring to the boil. Add the cream and stir well. Break the salmon into bite-sized pieces and stir through the cream sauce. Add the pasta and stir well, adding a little pasta water if necessary.
3. To serve, top the pasta with the salmon roe and the very thinly sliced nori.