Raw ambition wins out at Ren Ishii in Ramsgate

It's a universal truth that if there is a bloke sitting at the bar when you walk into a restaurant, then he will know more about the place than you do.

Even if it is a new Japanese restaurant in Ramsgate called Ren Ishii, and the bloke is not Japanese and called James. Clearly, one should try to benefit from his wisdom.

"Have the kingfish crudo, and don't miss the tuna pizza," he says. James, you're not wrong. The kingfish crudo ($25) comes courtesy of Yoshinori Fuchigami, whose work I have enjoyed many times during his 18 years at Rose Bay's Catalina, and it's a modern minefield of freshness and flavour.

The clean-tasting slices of fish are tumbled with crisp slices of thinly sliced nashi pear, seaweed and tobiko (flying fish roe) in a sharp miso vinaigrette, scattered with sesame seeds. We're off to a flying start.

Ren Ishii is run by two hospitality professionals, chef Luke Phillips and his wife, front-of-house Stephanie Phillips, who met while working at Catalina – hence the connection with Fuchigami. (And yes, the name is inspired by Lucy Liu's character in Kill Bill). Having run a popular cafe in Sans Souci for eight years, they felt the area could do with something a little more ambitious.

Hopefully, they're not wrong, either. It's a well-run, likeable place; the sort of place you'd chat to a bloke at the bar, but the kitchen does a lot more than it says on the packet.

That tuna pizza ($28), for instance, is a clever kaleidoscope of colourful ingredients on a flat, crisp, chewy corn tortilla-like base.

Ruby red tuna acts as the topping, garnished with garlic crisps, bright orange flying fish roe, baby red shiso leaves, tomato, fresh jalapeno and squiggles of anchovy mayo. Sounds messy, but just pick up a wedge and go for it; it all comes together.

There are also crisp nori tacos, which you can accompany with yuzu sake shots if you so desire, although the Mornington Peninsula's Kerri Greens 2021 Pigface Chardonnay ($14/75), unfiltered and unfined, is crisp, bright and citrusy enough for me.

The nigiri is as good as I remember from the Catalina days, with generous slices of yellowfin tuna, salmon, hiramasa kingfish and grilled Japanese eel clinging to finely fashioned fingers of hand-pressed, vinegared rice. And with four pieces for $20, eight pieces for $38 and 16 pieces for $65, it's better value than anything I've found in the CBD recently.

Luke Phillips quietly moves around the kitchen as if not doing anything much, then suddenly puts a finished dish of udon noodles and braised wagyu on the pass. It's thick and rich, sweetly savoury, and high on comfort; a Japanese pasta bolognese, if you will.

They're proud of their wagyu brisket ($42), too, a dark, brooding oblong of tender, slow-cooked beefiness topped with wonderfully chewy kombu chimichurri.

While the beef dishes are popular, I was impressed by the simplicity and craft of the salt-and-pepper quail ($32).

Jointed into pieces, marinated and lightly fried, the salt and pepper give it a pleasingly dusty texture, freshened up with a mass of finely cut spring onion and chilli. Eat in the hand, and dip into ponzu or mayonnaise.

Two other plusses: it's good to see a strong vegetarian choice – from shiitake dumplings to a wild mushroom and egg rice bowl with kelp sour cream – and it's also good to see maki rolls for kids on the menu.

Desserts are more along French lines, with a little assistance from the neighbouring Queens Pastri House. So tarte citron is zhuzhed up with a touch of yuzu to give it a Japanese accent. It's fine, but not really talking the same language.

Top sushi, top ideas and top value, in a bright, buzzy neighbourhood restaurant that happens to be in a neighbourhood that needs one.

Great stuff. Or so says the bloke at the bar, anyway.

The low-down

Vibe Smart, professional and modern Japanese neighbourhood restaurant

Go-to dish Salt-and-pepper quail, $32

Drinks Japanese beer, Dassai sake, Japanese-inspired cocktails (Hello Kitty Spritz), and a short but snappy wine list.