Restaurant Atelier

Darren Templeman is a chef with conviction and the technical chops to deliver on it. He's also a rarity on a strip known better for student cafes and curry houses, providing locals with a very fine little fine diner indeed. In this sandstone heritage cottage with its polished floorboards, exposed brickwork and smart contemporary art, Templeman confidently builds a bridge between classic French and modern Australian, accompanied by smoothly professional service. A juicy, caramelised breast and leg of Grimaud duck on smoked eggplant puree with fresh gooseberries for acidity is perfectly executed and delicious; a clever composition of abalone with pork jowls, enoki mushrooms, asparagus, chard and leaves of konbu panders shamelessly to pork and mollusc fetishists alike, with a fashion hit of umami thrown in for good measure. A Sichuan pepper and pineapple souffle and green peppercorn milkshake might be a bridge too far for classicists, but we're more than happy to cross it.