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Restaurant Como

Restaurant Como Article Lead - narrow
Restaurant Como Article Lead - narrowSupplied

Good Food hat15/20

Contemporary$$$

Location, location, location may be the usual imperative, but the success of this hidden haven defies the convention. Behind a suburban mall, in front of a car park, lies the brave new world of chef Grant Farrant's inspired cooking, with its twists and turns through foams, gels, dusts and soils. Throw in the impeccable service of host Rachel McNabb and you have a dining marriage made in heaven. The seared scallop tartlet with quinoa-crusted pork cheek and fetta-filled watermelon balls draped with coconut foam is as pretty as a picture. Tender herb-crusted venison works beautifully with sweet roasted figs and bitter cocoa soil, while angus fillet with crisp oxtail fritter and smooth potato puree is a study in textural contrasts. More textural hijinks come with a dessert of aromatic, soft rosewater meringue served with crisp toffee and mango parfait. As a bonus, enjoy between-course treats of velvety Jerusalem artichoke veloute, refreshing apple and mint sorbet and delicious praline.

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