Rockpool Bar & Grill

Do we have a better cook or restaurateur, anywhere than Mr Ponytail? Probably not, as this place, Melbourne's Great Hall of Steak and Other Indulgences, demonstrates. It has one of the most comprehensive wine lists around. The food is hardly subtle or, indeed, inexpensive, but it is always executed to absolute perfection, as in the ingenious four tastes of the sea or steamed chilli mussels to start, before a dry-aged steak flawlessly cooked, over a wood-fire. Giant rib-eyes are cleverly split, bone and all, to a manageable 350g and explode with beefy, grassy flavours, especially if you go a Cape Grim. Side dishes are masterful, including a potato and cabbage gratin or a mac and cheese - neither of which you need, but both of which you will finish. Puddings are inspirational, as are petits fours - salted butter caramels and passionfruit marshmallows. There is, you will quickly discover, sorcery at play here.