On a cold night, the sight of this Pitt Street institution is like a beacon, welcoming you with steaming pots of hot tea, crisp-bummed pan-fried dumplings and lip-numbing chilli oil to dip them in. They still get the basics right, and at rock-bottom prices - it's perfect for a solitary feast or small party. Stop off at the bottle shop a few doors down before dropping anchor at Sea Bay, then try the spicy chicken salad or a hot-and-sour soup that's a meal in itself. Dumplings come steamed, boiled or pan-fried, with a half-portion option allowing you to sample multiple fillings.