Sunnybrae

The industry is catching up with Sunnybrae. Now every serious chef is concerned with food provenance and seasonal, sustainable produce, but 'slow' food has obsessed George Biron for three decades, and his weekend lunches here in the Otway hinterland barely travel a food mile. The olive oil is his, the honeycomb served with the passionfruit tart is from his hives, the lemony succulent aptenia just picked from his garden. A platter of home-made cheese, local prosciutto, celeriac remoulade and heritage tomatoes allows ingredients to speak for themselves. Biron's skill shines through in a perfect wood-fire roasted veal shoulder and the delicate braising of baby carrots. The 'tongue-in-cheek' sandwich of tongue in beef cheek is simply masterful. Lunch in Sunnybrae's convivial light-filled room, presided over by Biron's partner Diane Garrett, of five courses (with a traditional 'savoury dessert' such as turkey livers in duck fat), interspersed with a garden stroll, is one of Victoria's great dining experiences. Opening hours are Sat-Sun 12.30pm-2.30pm