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Tao Tao House

Chinese$$

Pert little dumplings keep the lazy susans spinning at this rather classy Chinese local with good linen, hot towels and usually attentive service. The imperially furnished spot is a father-son operation. The pair has stints at the Flower Drum, Choi's and Golden Dragon Palace in their pedigree and it shows. There's dim sum day and night, off the cart at weekends, off the carte weekdays, and it's a strong suit. Pearly scallop siu mai are a menu fixture, while fiery Sichuan-peppered Chiu chow chicken crunches with deep-fried spinach. Desserts don't disappoint: perhaps baked chestnut sago pudding.

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