TarraWarra Estate Restaurant

The setting is splendid - a striking contemporary art museum, expansively grassed grounds, an award-winning winery. The restaurant is just as smart, but also casual, indoors or on the terrace. Friendly staff suggest wine-food combinations. Chardonnay lovers might start with house-cured salmon, twisted generously across avocado with sweet paprika. A vegetarian main triumphs in flavours (if not looks): two crunchy eggplant strips in chickpea-and-coriander batter, atop almond skordalia, quinoa salad and honey-cardamom syrup. Alternatively, paella-style chicken baked with bomba rice in a terracotta pot is cosy, yet may be a tad dry. Pinot noir enthusiasts might start with charcuterie - rich chicken-liver parfait, mustard fruits and air-cured local beef. Naturally, duck must follow, perfectly seared then moistened by lentil stew with apple. Desserts might include firm lemon polenta cake or even TarraWarra wine sorbets. Like the modern art next door, there's a commanding array and setting, and much to admire.