Teller

It takes a brave chef to open a degustation-only restaurant in a regional hub best known for its canneries, but Matthew Milsome has the pedigree to pull it off. The crafty chef spent time at Jacques Reymond before opening Teller in Mooroopna, then shifted the whole operation to Shepparton. A refined upstairs space is devoted to seven-course dinners, and it's clear that Milsome flexes his creative muscle here, with a series of standout dishes on a menu that's a steal at $70 a head. The menu doesn't give much away: 'fish, chip, lemon' equals a sandwich of crisps and mullet escabeche; 'fig, prosciutto, ricotta, rocket' is a natty fig tortilla with curls of ham. Thankfully, friendly, familiar staff give each dish a grand introduction. 'Snickers' speaks for itself, however: a hedonistic mix of choc-caramel brownie, nougat and peanut butter icecream. While upstairs is all mood lighting, linen-dressed tables, towering vases and art-adorned walls, downstairs is a more casual all-day affair, but pinstriped banquettes are a common denominator.