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Ten Minutes by Tractor

Dishes are complex combinations of flavours.
Dishes are complex combinations of flavours.Supplied

Good Food hatGood Food hat16/20

Contemporary$$$

The landscape, with vines among the gum trees and magpies on the grass, is Australian. But the inspiration behind the restaurant is high-end French, in all its details, from the cover plates on the double-clothed tables to the pre-dessert. The decor is simple; the excitement is on the table. There is a carte, but the degustation menus are the way to go. Choose from five or eight courses, with vegetarian and pescatarian options, with or without matched wines. House olive oil, bread rolls and a mouthful of appetiser start the meal, which proceeds according to the seasons. Perhaps a salad of goat’s cheese, chickpeas, beans and roast pumpkin to begin, followed by a coil of perfectly cooked whiting fillet, accompanied by baby fennel, a crunchy mussel and silky olive-oil-enriched potato puree. Then, maybe quail with barley ‘risotto’, wallaby with roasted beetroot, and chocolate and hazelnut pavé for dessert. Dishes are complex combinations of flavours, but always wine friendly.

And … Good range of wines by the glass, 500ml, or bottle.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe
Gastronomic temple. 
Best bit Loads of choice.
Worst bit Being the designated driver.

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