The Apollo

The vibe is Greek with faux grunge at The Apollo.
The vibe is Greek with faux grunge at The Apollo. Photo: Jennifer Soo

44 MacLeay St Elizabeth Bay, NSW 2011

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Opening hours L Fri-Sun; D Daily
Features Accepts bookings, Bar, Groups, Long lunch
Prices Moderate (mains $20-$40)
Chef Jonathan Barthelmess, Joshua Davidson
Seats 90
Payments AMEX, Visa, Mastercard
Phone 02 8354 0888

Staff in jeans and sneakers. Girl groups doing the full Greek. Couples sipping and nibbling at the bar … Apollo is use it as you wish, from an all-day menu on weekends to the private chef’s table (for 12) tucked into a kitchen alcove. The look is bare cement, big marble bar, grainy tabletops and fine bentwood chairs - distressed, shabby chic and just where you want to be for Greek food with heart, soul and great ingredients. Examples: calamari and zucchini tossed in chickpea flour, a hint of mint and lightly fried; giant chunks of octopus with a hit of charcoal, chilli, oregano and pickled cucumber. Pig’s tail crunch is tanged up in a salad of pomegranate, walnuts, farro and currants. The only let-down was over-large fried okra full of thick white seeds. Honey loukoumades are a no-brainer dessert order, although ouzo pineapple is a zingy alternative.

And … Only groups get to book for dinner.

Greek with faux grunge.
Best bit All the hits, well done.
Worst bit Order overload.