The Atlantic

The Atlantic's casino-side window displays fresh fish on crushed ice like precious (and pricey) jewels. Inside, the light but sometimes loud riverside atrium is veiled discreetly by fishing-net-inspired curtains, but the nautical themes are a subtle leitmotif throughout, from embossed fish on the leather-backed chairs to ropy light fittings. Plump prawns dominate a too-chilly seafood cocktail with lashings of dressing; a beautifully charred calamari fresh off the wood-fired grill makes a finer start. You can order whole fresh fish such as King George whiting from Port Franklin, then choose to have it roasted, steamed or grilled. The menu takes to the land for slow-roasted chicken, duck and grilled wagyu steaks. You'll need sides, like crunchy thrice-cooked russet potatoes. On the upside, there's a brilliant array of gorgeously fresh seafood. On the downside, quality control may be uneven - beans flaccid, a honey parfait delivered slouching over. Staff are as coolly efficient as a well-drilled nautical crew.