44 Bridge St Sydney, NSW 2000
It's a rare and exciting proposition when a new arrival on the Sydney dining scene combines the assured feel of a seasoned player with the fresh, raw excitement of the new kid on the block. The service purrs like a run-in Bentley, while the Deco bones of the building afford a classic air to this smartly attired dining room. The grown-up menu reflects chef and co-owner Ross Lusted's time with the international Aman resorts group, trawling the globe for inspiration. This is sublimely confident cooking, subtle in its crafting on the plate. The kitchen swings from cleverly paired scallops with pork lardo to a creamy, deliciously intoxicating raw wagyu shoulder with enoki mushrooms and fresh horseradish. A confident dish of swordfish, pine mushrooms and radicchio is far more than the sum of all its parts, while a burnt caramel cream, cleverly topped with a mint salad and purple basil, is as clever and understated as the restaurant itself.