The Press Club

Tumble down the rabbit hole to an epicurean wonderland with a marvellously topsy-turvy approach to Greek cuisine. What's over the top to some will seem a celebration to others. Souvlaki might be rendered unrecognisable - pureed pita, yoghurt as jellied whey, cucumber-skin gel - but is delicious with its lamb cooked two ways and ouzo-soaked onions. Japanese-Greek fusion turns up when yellowfin tuna and daikon run into jellied watermelon and surprisingly alluring pickled watermelon rind. Chicken in lemon brine is cooked sous-vide, served with onion foam, lettuce puree and chicken-skin 'chips'. Salmon is a centrepiece of a seafood main featuring deep-fried calamari tentacles and smoky eel croquettes. Traditional galatoboureko is reinvented as a carnival of treats such as honey panna cotta, jellied mango-juice pearls and sprinkles of sugary filo. Both food and atmosphere preserve the energy that once pulsed through this iconic newspaper building. Polished waitstaff work the darkly glamorous room, helping the open kitchen break new stories about how we eat.