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The Terminus Hotel

13/20

Contemporary$$

Once the end of the line, these days the Terminus is a destination for first-class pub meals. All elements of the somewhat foreboding edifice look the part, from lively front bar with old-fashioned, stained glass windows and a rotating selection of craft beers on tap, to the shabby-plush dining room decorated with vintage posters. Some of the small plates on the crowd-pleasing menu appear to be trying to reclaim turf from the food vans that have infiltrated the inner suburbs. There are soft tacos with chipotle chicken, and Vietnamese-inspired pork sliders with Asian slaw, held together with sandwich sticks. For mains, premium steaks in a range of cuts figure prominently, so you might choose rich pepper sauce to accompany grass-fed eye fillet, plated with crunchy, seasoned chips and a handful of salad leaves. Equally sizeable, a salmon fillet rests on a pea and leek risotto. Coconut panna cotta served with passionfruit sorbet and watermelon gel proves a comforting last stop.

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