Three Blue Ducks

Daytime at the Ducks is beautiful brekkie plates, but after a mid-arvo break the lights lower, the glass doors fold inwards and dinner service takes over. An assembly of assorted ingredients - seasonal, often kitchen-garden inspired - follows the most modern of sensibilities. Often-disparate elements are artfully grouped to good, if sometimes too whimsical, effect, dominated by smoky notes and hits of richness. Chestnut, pine mushrooms and scallops is dressed with jerusalem artichoke chips and puree. Black cake (blood pudding) makes a breakfast-like appearance with a runny duck egg and toasty triangles. Lamb ribs with smoked yoghurt and fresh peas is gloriously lush; duck breast with rhubarb and licorice a triumph of texture and taste. An apple dessert is piped with dulce de leche, pistachio praline and honey and rosemary ice-cream, a tribute to the Ducks' round-the-clock terrific-ness.