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Northcote newcomer Tinkers with smashed avo

Nola James

Step aside smashed avo, hello smashed peas with halloumi.
Step aside smashed avo, hello smashed peas with halloumi.Pam Morris

Cafe

Do the northern suburbs need another cafe? If the footpath clogging queues that form outside Northcote's super-hip newcomer Tinker every weekend are anything to go by, then that's a yes.

Opening in January in a social media frenzy, the cafe is owned by a large group of proprietors including Julien Moussi, Kristy-Lea Deva, Adam Vocale and executive chef Nicky Campbell; they're also responsible for east-side cafes Legacy (Camberwell) and Penta (Elsternwick) and Temperance Society (Hughesdale).

Chef and co-owner Campbell's photogenic, superfood-driven menu, much like sister venue Penta's, fits with the kombucha-belt clientele. Although, at risk of sounding 40 years older than I am: there's just no need to cram a two-page menu onto  an A4 card by using an eight-point font.

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Tinker's slick, minimalist interior.
Tinker's slick, minimalist interior.Pam Morris

We plump for a couple of detoxifying options (when in Rome).Two slices of manageably-sized sourdough toast are topped with perfect poachies and at least $8 worth of lightly braised peas – a brush stroke of vivid beetroot labna is a nice touch. There's a roast carrot version too, with slivers of raw and braised beetroot and crunchy clusters of smoked almonds.

A mango and saffron panna cotta, fresh berry and granola combo has a fine balance of textures without being overly sweet. You might have already seen that one doing the rounds on Instagram; it's a showstopper.

A table of four burly blokes next to us all order the only meaty breakfast dish: a kaiser bacon eggs benedict with sweet potato roesti (I'll admit to having food envy) and a plate of plump bacon and egg rolls turns heads as it's walked through the venue.

Go-to dish: Mango and saffron panna cotta with granola.
Go-to dish: Mango and saffron panna cotta with granola.Pam Morris
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It's not just about food that looks nice: a minimalist decor of white walls, grey concrete tiles and dark lacquered tables is slick; however, their "Mischievous Little Dreamers" branding (written on the floor, on the coasters, on just about every food blog in Melbourne) is a little twee.

I'm impressed by textural, blue-grey ceramics, although smaller bowls are clearly difficult to carry. On that note it's bonus points for service that's as refreshing as the complimentary sparkling water (bless), delivered with a smile by perky denim-clad millennials.

Thirsty? Coffee is above standard: well-made espresso using a house blend from Dimattina and a selection of Maker Fine Coffee single origins for filter and cold drip plus the obligatory turmeric-coconut-almond-chai lattes and fruity smoothies in pastel-coloured combos.

Kaiser bacon eggs benny.
Kaiser bacon eggs benny.Pam Morris

Not content to sit back and just enjoy their success the crew have just signed a lease on an old milk bar in Glen Waverley. I'm sure you'll get to read about that on the internet too – you can't believe everything that's hyped into an online frenzy but occasionally there's an exception to the rule.

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