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True South

14/20

South American$$$

In an impressive reimagining, this Art Deco garage is now an expansive beer hall with an on-site microbrewery and a vibrant, contemporary Argentine menu. High, exposed ceilings, swathes of planted greenery, tea-towel napkins and helpful, energetic staff give True South a breezy, feel-good vibe. Start with smaller, beer-snacky dishes such as empanadas, stuffed with a textured beef and olive filling and nubs of boiled egg, or moreish round, mini cheese buns. Mains might be a long, sticky brick of twice-cooked, crumbed pork belly with seasonal vegetables, perhaps white corn and pumpkin stew; or a revelatory black pudding salad, served warm, with salty brioche croutons and soft pieces of pudding. For a menu with a designated offal section, the 'garden' section is robust. roasted carrots in smoked maple syrup studded with peanuts and coriander seed is a standout. Walnut-sized, sugar-dusted doughnuts on a swirl of house-made dulce de leche are an irresistible finish.

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