Vlado's. Photo: Eddie Jim

61 Bridge Road Richmond, Victoria 3121

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Opening hours L D Mon-Fri; D Sat
Features Accepts bookings, Licensed
Prices Expensive (mains over $40)
Chef Ivan Glavas, Elliot Valkovic
Seats 90
Payments Diner's Club, eftpos, AMEX, Visa, Mastercard
Phone 03 9428 5833

Fifty years for a restaurant? Vlado's longevity is extraordinary. The reasons for its success are on the walls and on the plate. The late Vlado Gregurek – whose chef, son and daughter-in-law and wife continue his tradition – was a kind of king of the grill: the testimonials, awards and photographs on the walls are evidence. On the plate, the steak – choice of fillet, porterhouse or rump – is equal evidence of how good breeding, careful handling and precise cooking can elevate a simple piece of beef. It's not as simple as it seems. The compulsory fixed-price menu starts with excellent sausages, proceeds to grilled morsels including calf's liver and pork, and then comes the serious part, all accompanied by slaw and tomato salad, with mustard or horseradish cream. Wagyu is an optional extra. Though waiters might not always be as attentive as they should be, other things are constant, like the strawberry pancakes for dessert.

AND ... An abbreviated lunch menu is available weekdays for $60; specify when booking.

VIBE Old-fashioned, cosy.
BEST BIT Flavoursome meat.
WORST BIT Tight when full.