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Wide Open Road

Contemporary$$

Wide Open in name and nature, this converted warehouse has floorspace to burn - plenty of pram parking and a coffee roastery out back. Come for the brew but stay for the winning food. A special of gently perfumed kedgeree pops with mustard seeds, turmeric and cherry tomatoes beneath a pink slab of house-smoked trout; a standout dish of roasted portabello mushrooms atop a smear of garlicky skordalia is gloriously offset by smoky almond shards, currants and crunchy cauliflower. Unflustered staff whizz by with towering fish-finger sandwiches and great wodges of salted caramel slice.

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