Yen for Viet

It mightn't be quite Crown Street, Surry Hills but this stretch of Illawarra Road is getting a bit chichi. This sleek red room with simple monochrome posters is characteristic of the move away from tiles, mirrors and laminates, and the food's a step up too. Rice-paper rolls are stretchy and well packed with pork and prawn, while eggplant fritters with their crisp, dry carapace show how deep frying should be done. Lardon-like chunks of pork belly are slow braised simply in young coconut juice and fish sauce to melting tenderness. Chunks of chicken thigh huddle in shredded cabbage with Asian herbs, peanuts and tangy tamarind dressing. Modern Viet at traditional prices.