Firedoor chef Lennox Hastie opens Gildas wine bar in Surry Hills

Gildas opens on Tuesday, September 6, and like the Rita Hayworth film that inspired it, the new Surry Hills wine bar is quite an eye-catcher.

When Lennox Hastie revealed plans earlier this year for the wine bar – in the former home of Assiette restaurant and Chur Burger – he spoke about giving diners at his Firedoor mothership somewhere to head for pre- or post-meal drinks. Hastie may have undersold Gildas.

The Atoma Design interior has some Hollywood glam with its feature wall and framed wraparound banquette.

The Basque brief is also in good hands with Hastie, who has a CV dotted with experience working in pintxos bars, and head chef Zach Elliott-Crenn (ex-Vue de Monde and Michelin-starred Portland, London).

Gildas is named after the 1946 film noir, Gilda, which in turn inspired the skewered green olive, anchovy and green chilli snacks that have spread through San Sebastian. Unsurprising, you'll find gildas ($5) on the opening menu, along spanner crab churros with smoked creme fraiche ($26), grilled squid ajo negro ($19) and alubias beans, jamon broth, clams and manzanilla ($28). There's also an impressive sherry line-up and plenty of wines by the glass.

Hastie opened Firedoor in 2015 in partnership with Fink, the restaurant group behind Quay and Otto Ristorante. He continues that collaboration at Gildas.

"The Basque tradition of the pintxos taverna is a space where locals come together as a community to snack on small plates of pinxtos, tell stories, and enjoy a drink," Gildas' menu touts.

Hastie's plan was to create a venue to suit spontaneous and organised Sydneysiders equally, so it's a mix of bookings and walk-ins.

Open Tue-Sat 5pm-midnight (last drinks at 11.30pm).

46-48 Albion Street, Surry Hills, gildas.com.au