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Atlas Dining's next menu journeys to America's South

Roslyn Grundy
Roslyn Grundy

Shrimp and grits will be on the menu at Atlas Dining when the menu heads to the US.
Shrimp and grits will be on the menu at Atlas Dining when the menu heads to the US.Supplied

After spending most of 2019 exploring the food of Asia at his global-roaming South Yarra restaurant Atlas Dining, owner-chef Charlie Carrington will take the menu on a whistlestop tour of America's South.

Carrington visited Tennessee, Mississippi, Alabama and Texas seeking soul-food inspiration for his Commercial Road restaurant, which changes cuisines every four months.

Burn City Smokers has lent Carrington a smoker and given him a masterclass in low-and-slow barbecuing.

Atlas Dining owner-chef Charlie Carrington.
Atlas Dining owner-chef Charlie Carrington.Supplied
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From September 3, he'll serve smoky Texas-style beef brisket, Polish sausage and barbecued turkey breast, the dish that made a convert of the former turkey sceptic on his travels.

He also plans to serve shrimp and grits with wood-oven cornbread, fried chicken and gumbo and a selection of sweet pies, including pecan, key lime and sweet potato.

"We're going to have a bit of fun with it," says Carrington. "We want it to be a bit unexpected without dropping our standards."

The set menu is $70 a head.

Atlas opened in September 2016 and has already explored nine cuisines, with the food of Thailand and China being the latest examples.

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Carrington's side project, serving Israeli street-food, has recently undergone a name change from Colours to Lomah (Land of Milk and Honey, a poetic name for what is now known as Israel).

His first outlet, at 202 Commercial Road, Prahran, will reopen on August 26 after a refit. The sequel, at Melbourne Central's Ella precinct, opened in July.

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Roslyn GrundyRoslyn Grundy is Good Food's deputy editor and the former editor of The Age Good Food Guide.

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