Heart and soul Aussie pubs are back, with dimmies, raffles and daggy carpet the order of the day

Two billion dollars' worth of pubs have changed hands in the last two years, but a fresh breed of operators are less interested in shiny new boozers. Instead, they're reviving tried and true pub traditions such as meat raffles, fisherman's baskets and trivia nights.

Brigette Jakobsen of The Enmore Hotel thought a lot about the idea of the pub being "the poor man's church" when overhauling what was The Sly Fox in Sydney's inner-west in 2020.

The Enmore now has a pool table and jukebox, sport on TV and people are encouraged to sit at the tiled horseshoe bar, with 10 stools bolted to the floor.

"It's a community pub. It's a place for people to come and be together," she says. "It's carefree, you can take a load off and just enjoy being in a pub."

Jakobsen is typical of a new breed of publican in Sydney and Melbourne. Younger and tuned in to current tastes, they also bring a love of the pubs of yesteryear, before gaming and gastronomy diluted the spirit of a good local.

Will Benjamin, part of a group that now operates the 151-year-old Royal Oak in Melbourne's inner-north, says the pub got "bloke-ified" in the last 30 years.

"It should be the heartbeat of a community," he says, describing himself as a custodian of The Royal Oak's history.

Seddon's Mona Castle and the Ascot Vale Hotel, both under new management, offer weekly locals nights, with a meat tray raffle (or veg box, if you don't eat meat) and discounts on drinks. It's been a hit with long-time regulars of the Ascot Vale, who were worried in 2020 their corner pub might close or be sold to developers.

Now the pub, under Brad Olsson and Nick Schultze, attracts a huge cross-section of Melbourne's north, from kids with their parents to older couples on date night.

"It's sensational," says Danny Cash, a regular for 20 years. "In the old days it was more of the old boys, no young people really drank here. Now they've come, you can see the difference."

Australia's pub sector is in flux, with $300 million done in deals already this financial year, adding to $2 billion last year, from the coast to the inner-city. Part of it is generational change: older operators are retiring, some spurred on by two tumultuous years of trade.

Most market activity is driven by big business, but operators like Olsson, Jakobsen and Benjamin are tapping into our pub love affair. It's been building over a decade, led by venues including The Unicorn in Paddington and the Victoria Hotel in Footscray, but is now taking off.

At the end of each lockdown, it was telling that the busiest venues were often pubs.

"I suppose everyone wants to feel part of something," says Ray Reilly, a forerunner of Sydney's pub revival with the Henson in Marrickville. His group now owns seven well-loved community pubs. "Everyone, in my circles anyway, loves to have a pub that they can call their own."

Jakobsen says one of her favourite moments at the Enmore was when a monthly punk night coincided with a big English Premier League game on TV. "There was almost the same excitement at the two ends of the pub."

Pubs have had to change as their neighbourhoods have. "We feel as though for a long time [pubs] haven't been serving the purpose for the community they should. They've become irrelevant," says Benjamin.

Younger families in established suburbs are looking for welcoming, pokie-free environments, something The London Hotel in Balmain quickly identified.

Operator Laurence Collins leased out the eight pokies that came with the pub. But he was extremely cautious about other changes to the 165-year-old building last year, known for its polished timber bar, brass fixtures and wide verandah.

"I still want people to walk through the doors and recognise that it is The London," he says.

Nostalgia is a key ingredient of these new-but-old pubs. A sign declaring the Coldest Pots Club at the Ascot Vale Hotel lists the names of regulars who always sit on the same corner of the bar. In Fitzroy North, The Royal Oak reopened three weeks ago with original dado tiles on the exterior and interior walls, and a strong 1970s Australiana look. Sister venue The Bridge in Werribee is all wood panelling and floral carpet in the dining room.

Even the food can scream retro, with dimmies, potato cakes and pies on offer.

Each publican stresses the importance of getting to know what their community needs, and being a communal living room.

The Enmore celebrates its bustling neighbourhood of bars, bottle shops and quirky retailers, with a 'spin and win' wheel each Friday night, giving away prizes donated by these businesses. It also does a weekly badge draw.

The Mona Castle got rid of its TAB, but has kept sport and racing on TVs in the front bar, while creating big dining spaces for families out the back.

The social glue a pub provides is a big part of the appeal for Olsson. "You can have so many different people from different walks of life in the one pub. It just seems to work," he says.

As alcohol consumption in Australia continues to trend downwards, the future of the pub is as hazy as an IPA. But analysis by IBISWorld indicates that pubs serving quality food (and the growing number of non-alcoholic drink options) may weather the change better.

It's hard to imagine the pubs of old pouring non-alcoholic lagers and grilling vegan burgers. But if a pub is for the people, then these new boozers are living up to their role.

Melbourne's best old-but-new pubs

Mona Castle

TV screens and Carlton Draught on tap keep the pub's old regulars happy, while the whole neighbourhood can get behind the Thursday night raffle, which includes a veg box alongside the meat tray. Giant pies to share, frog in a pond and dimmies are a fun culinary time-warp, available across a family-friendly dining space, bistro and the classic-looking front bar.

45-53 Austin Street, Seddon, 03 9687 2101, monacastle.com

Bridge Hotel

This 100-year-old western suburbs boozer was overhauled in 2020 by the group behind Marquis of Lorne. Floral carpets and wood panelling in the dining room ramp up the suburban nostalgia; fishermen's baskets and cream cheese-capsicum dip complete the scene. Pub dishes of old hang out with vegan-friendly and gluten-free options, like mixed mushroom risotto, all backed by a solid drinks list. Parma nights, Sunday roasts and live music are also on offer.

197 Watton St, Werribee, 03 9742 2895, bridge-hotel-werribee.com.au

Ascot Vale Hotel

Opened by a group of friends who did most of the renovations themselves, this pub squeezes front bar, dining room and courtyard into a corner site that still feels compact while catering to all stripes. A pared-back look big on tradition leaves plenty of room for local personalities to add colour, while plates of dimmies and a weekly raffle are a nod to the pub's previous chapter.

447 Mt Alexander Rd, Ascot Vale, 03 9326 0407, ascotvalehotel.com.au

Royal Oak Hotel

Dog-friendly and dripping with nostalgic touches, this corner pub on a main street of Melbourne's north has a huge front bar to unwind in, whether you're after a pot of Carlton or a glass of funky wine. A chalkboard advertises the day's specials, AFL is on the TV (or cricket in summer) and chips come with chicken salt. Perfection.

442 Nicholson Street, Fitzroy North, 0409 061 444, royaloakhotel.co

Goldys Tavern

Fans of nana chic will feel like they've gone straight to heaven at this backstreets Collingwood boozer. There's a take on the chiko roll, classics like fish and chips and three choices of steak, but this isn't a pub stuck in the past. Peking jackfruit (not duck!) is among the many vegan options and there's loads of craft brews and non-alcoholic drinks.

66 Gold Street, Collingwood, 03 9551 8244, goldystavern.com.au

Sydney's best old-but-new pubs

The London Hotel

It's one of Sydney's oldest and most well-known pubs, helped along by its winning views of the bridge and gorgeous heritage features. Big community energy is also a key ingredient, with trivia nights, Sunday roasts and daily lunch specials. The new team plan to revive badge draws and meat raffles soon, and add live music.

234 Darling Street, Balmain, 02 9810 1128, thelondonhotel.com.au

The Enmore Hotel

Friday night footy. Reschs merchandise. Oz Rock on the jukebox and pies in the warmer. If you weren't clear on the Aussie cultural influences that drive the Enmore, a huge framed photograph of women at the Enmore wearing tiny footy shorts - a reference to a Rennie Ellis photo of men at the pub - will make it clear. Food is limited to pies and jaffles but the vibe makes up for it.

199 Enmore Road, Enmore, 02 9171 0847, enmorehotel.com.au

The Oxford Tavern

Petersham's beloved boozer underwent a facelift this year, revealing a new fit out, menus and late-night entertainment roster in June. Odd Culture Group CEO James Thorpe says renovations stayed true to the "pub's core identity" while "crafting something new that represents an amalgam of history and progression in a safe, welcoming space." Trivia night, bingo and free pool on Monday keep the regulars coming back.

1 Canterbury Road, Petersham; 02 8317 3057; oddculture.group

The Unicorn Hotel

A revamp in 2015 did nothing to diminish the historic charm of The Unicorn. Worn leather seating, forest-green tiles and the lingering scent of lager are all present here, a lasting tribute to the Australian pubs of the '70s. Punters can treat themselves to classic counter meals such as meat pie with mushy peas, chicken parma (parmi?) and Jatz with French onion dip.

106 Oxford Street, Paddington; theunicornhotel.com.au

Backyard at The Alex

Merivale resurrected the historic Alexandria Hotel in 2021 with an extensive backyard renovation. While the interiors remain faithful to traditional Aussie pub aesthetics, the backyard kicks it up a notch with brightly coloured murals, festoon lights and a basketball court. Long communal tables, a dog-friendly policy and Sydney Swans game night specials make for big community energy.

35 Henderson Road, Alexandria; merivale.com/venues/the-alex